Vacheron Constantin Elevates the Perpetual Calendar with Transparency and Precision
<img width="2100" height="1399" src="https://ostermanwatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/Vacheron-Constantin-Traditionnelle-Complete-Calendar-Openfac
In keeping with the great tradition of the manufacture, Vacheron Constantin never gives in to the spectacular for the sake of it. But when the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, it immediately caught everyone's eye. With this new timepiece, the Geneva-based brand offers a three-dimensional reading of time, merging an iconic complication with modern openness.
At first glance, the watch remains faithful to the Traditionnelle collection: classic proportions, a 41 mm 18K white gold case, a railway minute track, dauphine hands, and formal purity. But the dial plays a different tune. It is openworked, finely skeletonised, revealing the complexity of the calibre 2460 RQP without ever compromising legibility. The result is an architectural display where the bridges, discs, and wheels can be glimpsed between the hour markers, like a discreet nod to the work of the master watchmakers.
The retrograde date stretches in an arc between 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, with an instantaneous flyback at the end of the month. Below, the perpetual calendar displays are structured around three highly legible sub-dials: day at 9 o'clock, month at 3 o'clock, and leap year at 6 o'clock. A fourth element is discreetly added: a moon phase indication, positioned at the bottom center of the dial.
The watch is powered by a self-winding movement from Vacheron Constantin, the calibre 2460 RQP: 28,800 vibrations per hour, a 40-hour power reserve, and above all, the Hallmark of Geneva certification, a guarantee of excellence in terms of precision, finishing, and durability.
The openworked dial plays on smoked transparency, galvanic treatments, and hand-beveled bridges, creating remarkable visual depth. It is a watch to be explored in natural light, where every angle reveals a different detail. Despite this, legibility remains perfect, thanks to a surgical balance between openness and structure.
The sapphire caseback allows you to admire the movement's decorations: Côtes de Genève, blued screws, an engraved oscillating weight, and circular-grained wheels. The ensemble is mounted on a shiny black alligator leather strap with a white gold folding clasp, completing the harmony of the piece.
The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface is aimed at those who seek both complication and subtlety. It does not shout; it suggests. It is a watch that demands a second look to truly appreciate its refinement. A timepiece that perfectly reflects the manufacture: mastery, culture, discretion, and precision.
If you enjoyed this article, you can also discover our piece on another new model from Vacheron Constantin, currently the most complicated wristwatch in the world.
Osterman Watch
An independent, rigorous, and uncompromising watch media
No advertising
No commercial influence
Zero data reselling
We only serve watchmaking
Not brands. Not algorithms. Not forced trends.
Support Osterman Watch
Preserve an independent voice in watchmaking